Cinque Terre Tips from a Local

The Cinque Terre (Five Lands) National Park is an area that has absolutely exploded in popularity in the past decade, to the point of being on almost every travelers “must see” list in Italy. There is a good reason why – these five tiny fishing villages are enchanting, snuggled into nooks between mountains, colorful coral and pastel hued homes leaning against each other, seemingly about to fall into the sea. Linked together but a short train ride, a lovely boat trip, or a longer hike through the hand-wrought stone terraces that make this area also a UNESCO world heritage site, the Cinque Terre also offer something for almost every type of traveler. It’s a place that many people dream to visit, and an area that can be a little challenging just because of the sheer number of people that are (rightfully so) attracted to it’s charm. It’s also the place I am lucky enough to call home for the past 10 years.

I live year round in the village of Monterosso Al Mare, the “fifth”, biggest and most westerly of the five villages that make up the Cinque Terre – though “big” isn’t a word to use describing my town – our wintertime population is only around 600 people! I see on a daily basis the huge numbers of people that amass in the summer months, which has been picked up by international media to the point that many are deciding not to come and visit based on the amount of tourism our tiny villages have been overwhelmed with. Don’t worry, though, with a few tips from a local, you don’t have to cross the Cinque Terre off your bucket list – there are plenty of ways you can see this area, avoid the crowds and still have a great time.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING

The summer months can be harrowing here, especially July and August, and the beginning of September, as well as around Italian national holidays (May 1st, April 25th). You aren’t just dealing with the usual amount of tourists that come by pullman from Florence (or in some cases even further!), or the cruise shippers that dock in La Spezia, Genoa or Livorno, but you are also dealing with Italian tourists that are coming for a trip to the beach. Lots of times, I overhear English speaking visitors comment on a restaurant that was full of “locals” because everyone was speaking Italian – this just means they are Italian tourists! The vast majority of us locals work in tourism, and summer is our busy season. You’d be hard pressed to find a restaurant full of Cinque Terre locals on an evening in the summer season, as they are the ones preparing or serving your food, or at the front desk in your hotel. Though not everyone has the luxury of timing their vacation in the shoulder months of late September, amazing October, May or early June, you can plan your day in a way that you avoid the hoards. The big groups coming in from further away usually arrive in late morning, and coming in by bus means that they are limited as to where they can arrive. Many start in Manarola or Monterosso, then due to time constraints, will see Vernazza in the middle, end in the village they didn’t start in, then head on their way. Starting early, as early as you can, means that you can see the postcard perfect Vernazza in the early morning before the groups get there. By working “opposite” of the cruise ship or day-tripper groups, you’ll find that you are arriving in places as they are getting ready to leave.

PICK ALTERNATE ACTIVITIES

A huge amount of people that come here come for one reason only – to hike the villages. There are over 25 different hiking trails that run through the area, and only one (the blue trail, trail 2, the coastal trail are some of it’s names) requires you to pay to hike it, and it officially run by the national park. This trail, like all of our trails, is narrow, steep, and full of steps and sheer drops and is not something you want to be doing when you are competing with 100 other people for a small space on a mountainside. You can start early, as I mentioned above, and hike the trail before breakfast, getting the most trekked (and congested in the afternoon) portion of Monterosso to Vernazza out of the way before breakfast. Otherwise, explore the other, lesser-used (and free!) trails – calling one trail a “coastal trail” as opposed to another is a bit misleading. They are all coastal trails, with sweeping, breathtaking views of the Ligurian sea that stretches out as far as the eye can see – on a clear day, you can even see as far as the French Riviera, Elba and Corsica. These lesser-used trails are challenging, but not so much more than the others, and you’ll be rewarded for your extra steps with a more tranquil experience.

TAKE THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED

These five tiny villages are so tiny that sometimes, it can feel like you can’t escape the crowds – but making a left turn instead of a right can make a huge difference. Take the “road less traveled”, so to speak! Monterosso al Mare is divided into two parts, the historical center as well as the “new town” (or Fegina it is often called, as the main street is called Via Fegina). In the morning, most visitors are concentrated in the old town center, exploring the characteristic streets and churches. Go through the tunnel and explore the long stretch of the other side of the village then. See everyone flocking to the beaches in Fegina after lunch? That’s a great time to then head to explore the back alleys and hidden churches. Corniglia is also a great choice to see – the third village is the only one not located directly on the sea, and it’s a short minivan ride or 382 steps up from the train station. These stairs mean that most visitors on time constraints give it a pass, which is a huge mistake. It’s a becoming little village, and the least crowded.

Go up the stairs whenever you can. Many of the big groups have people with mobility issues, and if you are in good shape, you can find many “shortcuts” that weave up and down stone staircases instead of the main streets. You’ll wind up, in some cases, over the villages with amazing viewpoints – just remember to always be respectful that people actually live here. It’s easy to get turned around and wind up in someone’s front door!

SEE US FROM THE SEA

Taking a boat is the best way to appreciate how incredibly particular and isolated these villages are. When we have a day off, the first thing my husband and I do is go out on our canoe. There are several options on how to get around by water, which was not so long ago one of the only ways you could get from village to village. The tourist ferry runs regularly during the summer season (usually from the beginning of April to the end of October) and stops in all the villages, save for Corniglia perched on her hill, which has no port. It’s the least expensive option, but if you don’t get there early, you might find that you are unable to get a seat with a view. It also can run sporadically over lunchtime and in the slower months. 

A private boat tour is the best way to go. A smaller boat means that you can enter closer to the rocky coastline, and explore some of the beautiful grottoes and even a freshwater waterfall along your way. You can get on and off as you like, stopping for a swim or even a drink as you explore the villages this way.

A canoe or a kayak is my personal favorite, and a great hit with our more active clients. Grab a few beers, some focaccia as a snack, and get rowing! You can rent them easily in Monterosso, Vernazza and Riomaggiore, and the sea is usually so calm it’s quite the simple ride. We like to paddle along the coast to Vernazza, or out around the Punta Mesco protected marine reserve – boats can’t come here, and the water is just incredible. We see dolphins here too, and seeing dolphins at eye level with you in a kayak is an experience you will never forget. Just remember that you have to paddle back if you start going far!

EAT LIKE ITALIANS DO

If you are worried about running into problems getting a table at some of your “must visit” restaurants, make a reservation. Most everyone speaks at least some English, and in restaurants, everyone speaks enough to take a booking. If you want to take it a little easier, or the restaurant where you want to dine doesn’t take bookings, change your typical lunch and dinner time – eating later like Italians means that you’ll avoid the foreign tourists that flood restaurants at 7pm, and you’ll have more time to relax and enjoy your meal, as the restaurant won’t fret about getting you out in time for a 9:30 pm booking. Just remember to check the train schedule if you are in a different village – the trains stop in the evening, and if you miss the last one, you are stuck for the night!

With a little bit of patience, and following the tips above, you will be able to manage your expectations and fall in love just like I did with this beautiful area. You certainly won’t have the villages to yourself if you come in the peak of tourist season, but you can absolutely still have a great time, and appreciate the natural beauty of my home.